Grand Canyon :: OMG, Look at the Bright Angel Trail...

The morning after our return from Indian Gardens (Wednesday, April 15th) we took a walking “tour” of some of the lodges and other historical buildings on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. There is a trail that goes most of the length of the South Rim and we walked a short ways along it to the Trail View Overlook, which gives a very nice (putting it mildly) look at the Bright Angel Trail.

The Trail from the rim. At the top, just a little left of center you can see several lodges. The one at the rim is the Bright Angel Lodge and the trailhead is to it's right as you are looking at the picture.

You'll have to trust me on this... The 1.5-mile rest-house is a short distance to the left of that longest pointy shadow. The 3-mile rest-house is at the far end of the trail on the lower left.

Enlarged view of the previous photo, showing the 1.5 mile rest-house in the upper center of the photo. Actually, those are the restrooms, the rest-house is tucked away in the side of the Canyon, next to that shadow.

The 3-mile rest-house is near the center of the picture, where the trail makes a sharp turn back, just above the “black spot” which is a steep cliff. Indian Gardens is barely visible on the far left (that clump of green trees).

Enlarged view of the previous photo, showing the 3-mile rest-house (the small clump of trees where the trail splits to go out to the overlook and the restrooms).

And finally, the trail into Indian Gardens and on out to Plateau Point. Of course, the Bright Angel trail continues on down to the River and the Phantom Ranch area. Where the Plateau Point trail veers to the left, the Bright Angel trail goes to the right.

I must say that when I saw these views I was amazed and in awe of the fact that I had actually hiked that trail. I told Sue and Fred that if I had seen this before Tuesday morning, it is highly likely that I would not have made the trek. It was scary looking at the depth and the switchbacks and I wasn't sure of my abilities. I really don't know whether I would have done it or not. I'm very glad that we hiked it and it is something that I'll remember for a long time to come. And I now have greater confidence in my abilities to hike somewhat more difficult trails than I have been doing!


Other posts in this series:

• Grand Canyon :: Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens (part 1)
• Grand Canyon :: Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens (part 2)
• Grand Canyon :: Indian Gardens to Plateau Point (part 3)
• Grand Canyon :: From Indian Gardens to The Rim (part 4)

Grand Canyon :: From Indian Gardens to The Rim

It was getting dark as we returned from Plateau Point. We had a quick supper then laid our sleeping bags and pads on the tarp. No tent. It would be my first time sleeping under the stars. It had cooled down quickly with the darkness and we didn't waste any time crawling into the sleeping bags. The night sky was filled with bright, brilliant stars. Amazing. During our brief visit, I had told Craig Manson that the night sky at Big Bed was incredible, but here in the Grand Canyon it was even more so. Perhaps it had something to do with the fact that there was nothing between me and the sky! Several times I woke up during the night and simply gazed at all of the stars in the sky.

I awoke at first light, made a quick trip to take care of the necessities, and sat at the picnic table wrapped in the sleeping bag to wait for Sue and Fred to wake up. I was a little stiff, partially from sleeping on the ground but also from yesterday's hikes. I was dreading the trek that was to come yet oddly looking forward to it. I recalled a sign posted alongside the trail at the 3-mile rest-house “Getting to the bottom, OPTIONAL. Getting to the top, MANDATORY.” We hadn't gone to the bottom, but still, the only way out was up, and you had to walk it.

It was another beautiful day! The sun had finally crested the rim, throwing it's warming rays into the Canyon. The coolness of the early morning spurred us on. We were packed and on the trail at 7 o'clock.

A group of half a dozen small deer greeted us at the 3-mile rest-house.

The Rim. The end. The beginning. Taken from the 3-mile rest-house a few minutes after 8 a.m.

Indian Gardens and Plateau Point, with the North Rim in the background. Photo taken at 9:45, near the 1.5-mile rest-house.

Look, we're smiling! That's because we know we're near the top (we were just 7 minutes away at the time) and almost finished with a fantastic experience. It was worth every ache and pain along the way (and the ones for several days after).

The trek to the top took not quite five hours. We left Indian Springs at 7 a.m. and arrived at the rim at 11:50. We celebrated by stopping at the Bright Angel Lodge Dining Room for a hot meal then back to the campground for a hot shower! The rest of the day was spent resting, relaxing, and recuperating, though the latter took several more days for me!

Thank you so much Sue and Fred for allowing me to join you on this trek. I've said it before, and I'll say it again – it was AMAZING! And possibly the most challenging and fantastic thing I've done on this journey, or ever!


Other posts in this series:

• Grand Canyon :: Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens (part 1)
• Grand Canyon :: Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens (part 2)
• Grand Canyon :: Indian Gardens to Plateau Point (part 3)

Grand Canyon :: Indian Gardens to Plateau Point

This is the third installment, before continuing you might want to read the first and second parts of the story! For whatever reason, most likely just plain tired, I didn't get any pictures of our campsite. Like all of the sites at Indian Gardens it had a picnic table with a shelter over it along with metal boxes in which to store your food and toiletries (the odors will draw the critters). After a brief rest we ate our lunch of pita bread sandwiches, protein bars, and trail mix. For some reason it tasted quite good!

Then it was off to our second destination of the day – Plateau Point, which lies 1.5 miles north over a relatively easy trail. The trail to Plateau Point can be seen in the second photo of the second post in this series.

As we were coming off the last switchback and down into the canyon at Indian Gardens we had noticed a change. More trees, brighter green, and glorious Red Bud trees in full bloom! Just beyond the campground, alongside the stream, there was a grove of Red Buds. Their flowers contrasted brightly against the green of the surrounding trees and the grass growing beneath their branches.




And the little cactus plants literally covered the ground in some spots. And they were nearly ready to burst forth into bloom! On the way out to Plateau Point, we saw just one cactus in bloom with gorgeous deep red flowers, but it was too far off the trail. However, on the way back, Fred spotted another blooming cactus, just a few feet away. I just had to stop and get a few pictures of it. Amazing color. And it wouldn't be long before the desert floor was carpeted with their color. It had to have been an incredible sight.

The view of the Colorado River from Plateau Point, looking east.

Looking west.

We spent several hours at Plateau Point. Much of the time we were alone and it was so peaceful and quiet. People would come and go, make noisy chit-chat, then leave us. For a while we watched a group of six Condors riding the air thermals until they disappeared into the distance. You could occasionally hear the water tumbling over the rapids far below. Ravens soared and swallows flitted over and around us. Sitting on the rocks, on the edge, yet in the middle of the Canyon is indescribable. As the sun lowered in the sky, the air took on a chill, and we reluctantly left Plateau Point.

We thought about staying and watching the sunset, but we didn't have any lights with us. Instead, we went back, got our lights, then walked to a point that provided a decent view. We knew we wouldn't be able to actually see the sun drop below the horizon but thought perhaps it's waning rays would add some color to the Canyon. It wasn't spectacular though it was quite nice. A fitting end to an incredible day. One that started out a little “iffy” but turned out great. We really couldn't have asked for a better day to make the trek into the Canyon. Quite memorable.

Grand Canyon :: Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens

This is the second installment, before continuing you might want to read the first part of the story! Snow and fog notwithstanding, we continued on down the Bright Angel Trail toward Indian Gardens.

After about 45 minutes on the trail. Still a little snow, though somewhat muddy and slippery the trail was mostly clear. We were still taking our time with each step. But look out into the Canyon – we're beneath the fog! And the sun is coming through!

And now we can see our destination! It's that grove of green trees in the middle of the photo - Indian Springs. But we still had 3 1/2 miles to go... The thin line crossing the “flat” area beyond Indian Gardens is the trail to Plateau Point, which provides wonderful vistas of the Colorado River and the Canyon.

Several slight delays were encountered. When the mule trains came along we had to step aside to let them pass. Some carried cargo, like these.

While other mule trains carried passengers. As they passed by us, I noticed that very few of the people had smiles on their faces. Some of them looked downright uncomfortable.

From whence we had come - the point of the “V” at the top of the rim. This was taken at about 11 o'clock, between 2 and 2 1/2 miles into the Canyon. Very little of the trail can be seen.

This series of corkscrew switchbacks greeted us upon leaving the 3-mile rest stop at about noon.

It seemed like they would never end.

Indian Gardens, only forty-five minutes away. Walking within the Canyon gives you an entirely different perspective. What looks flat from above, isn't. It is rugged. From the rim it takes on a blue hue, but it is colorful. It is amazing. Beautiful. Stupendous. Magnificent. Glorious. Impressive. Awesome. Sensational. Stunning. Awe-inspiring. Spectacular. Dramatic. Majestic. Astonishing. Dazzling. The Grand Canyon is all of those things and more. It is also challenging. Dangerous. Formidable. Imposing. Powerful.

Almost there, just another half hour to go.

Weary feet. Taking a short break. We made it down to Indian Gardens in a little less than four hours, arriving at about 1 o'clock. We had traveled 4.6 miles and dropped 2,985 feet in elevation. We had gone from fog and snow and below freezing temperatures to bright sun and 70 degrees. A world of difference. We would spend the night at the campground, but first there was another little trek to be made before nightfall.

To be continued... part Three

Grand Canyon :: Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens

Prior to our little adventure yesterday we had gone to the Backcountry Permit Office to see what was available for an overnight trip. Somehow, Sue and Fred had talked me into a little backpacking hike and an overnighter. It really didn't take much convincing on their part as I was ready for a little adventure. Sue and Fred have hiked all the way to the river previously, spending a night at Phantom Ranch, then stopping off a second night at the Indian Gardens campground, making the trek to the top the following day. They have also done a lot of hiking and backpacking to various other places. They had also “trained” for this trip. So they were “old pros” at this backpacking thing. Me? Never backpacked. Never slept under the stars. There's a first time for everything!

As it turns out, there was a spot open at the Indian Gardens Campground for the next day, Tuesday. We were warned that there was a chance of precipitation Monday afternoon, possibly even some snow Monday night. We went ahead and made the reservation anyway.

Monday afternoon, after our return from Cedar Ridge, the temperature dropped dramatically. It had started raining in the late afternoon but that rain quickly changed to snow! Big flakes. Wet flakes. Lots of them. At first it didn't stick, but we soon noticed it accumulating on the branches of trees. By the time we went to bed Monday night, there was about two inches of snow on the ground. And it was cold. It got even colder during the night. And the snow was still there on Tuesday morning.

The scene we awoke to on Tuesday morning.

It was pretty, but we really could have done without it! I guess Mother Nature just wanted us to be able to experience all facets of the Grand Canyon.

By the time we had breakfast and double checked to see that we had everything, the sun had come out. It was about 8:30 when we left for the trailhead. Fred dropped Sue and me off, parked the car in the overnight lot, and returned within a few minutes. Then we walked to the trailhead. When we got to the Canyon, another surprise awaited us!

Fog! Filling the Canyon! Yes, snow, we had expected. But fog? One amongst our party, who shall remain nameless (not me), wasn't sure that we should continue. It would be too slippery. We couldn't see. But the other two of us took the positive attitude (or perhaps, were a little crazy) “It will get better. The fog will go away. The snow won't be very far down.” On we went. This picture was taken at 8:42 a.m. just beyond the first turn into the canyon.

Sue and Fred at the first tunnel, just .18 miles from the rim and ten minutes into the hike. The tunnel is visible in the previous photo. It was slow going. It was slippery. We took our time. Others had gone down that path before us, so it had to be okay, right?

The view of the rim from the trail, 20 minutes into the hike.

One of the worst patches of the trail, about 30 minutes into the hike. Beneath that fresh layer of snow was a very thick layer of slippery ice. This section of the trail gets little, if any, sun.

To be continued... part two