The Grand Canyon :: Navajo Point and Desert View

Navajo Point is the last viewpoint before arriving at Desert View. Quite Spectacular. Indeed.

And a closer view of The River.

And this is how it looks from Desert View. The exterior of the Watch Tower was being renovated the last time I was here and this area was not accessible. I think the little blue wheelbarrow adds something to the picture, I'm just not sure what!

A slightly closer shot of the same view as above.

Each one of the stones used in construction of the Watch Tower was reportedly selected by the architect Mary Jane Colter. She also determined where each stone was to be placed.

I did go inside and was going to go up but after the first few steps, my legs cried out “no way” so I turned around. I was completely enthralled by the interior and took plenty of photos the last time, which you can see here.

The view to the east, looking out over the desert. The Little Colorado Gorge lies a few miles away and the terrain is still quite rugged.

And so, as the road to Desert View comes to an end, so too does this Journey of mine... I've made it safely back to Indiana. I'm Home Again. Thank you to everyone who has followed along, I'm so glad you could join me for the ride...

For those of you who are feeling the need for a bit of adventure, my cousins Sue & Fred will be hiking into the Grand Canyon in a few weeks. Then they will be traveling in the West and in May will follow the coast north and “driving” to Alaska via the Marine Highway. They will be spending the Summer Up North! I wish them well in their journey and will be following along virtually, as many of you have been following me...

The Grand Canyon :: Moran Point & Hance Rapids

At Moran Point, I parked on the east side of the parking lot, and as I got out of the van this was what I saw! The Colorado River can be seen more frequently on the eastern side of the park because the canyon walls are not quite so steep.

Walking to the western side of the viewpoint, the view was even more breathtaking. If you look closely a little to the right of the center of the picture you can see the Hance Rapids. (Better seen if you double-click on the image to get a larger version.)

There was an area to the left and below the viewing area that provided a better view. The lighting was fantastic and really showed off the colors of the Canyon.

Zooming in a little closer... A small tour group showed up while I was there and the guide explained that the Hance Rapids were the largest in the Canyon. He said the waves were 12-15 feet high and the rapids were 200 feet across! Wherever a tributary joins the Colorado there will be rapids, partly from the debris carried into the river by the tributary.

The camera set at the maximum 30x zoom and from a slightly different angle. It looks a little “rough” but still doesn't look like the waves are all that big. Like many things in life, it's just a matter of perspective...

One Last Chance...

Thursday, March 15th - - As I was driving east along Interstate 40 I decided to take the time to visit one of my favorite places – after all, I might not get back this way again, at least not any time soon. The Grand Canyon is only about 60 miles north of I-40 and it was simply not possible for me to pass it by, especially after I checked the weather report and found that it was going to be a beautiful day!

It was about 11:30 in the morning when I arrived to find the parking lots nearly full. I certainly wasn't expecting that!

Like most visitors, the first place I went was to Mather Point. As you can see, it was a bit crowded.

But the view from Mather Point is worth bumping elbows with other visitors or having to wait until someone moves away from the railing so you can get that “perfect” shot. The weather could not have been better. The temperature was in the low 60s and there was barely a breeze blowing. Also, the “blue haze” wasn't too bad either.

Because there were so many people and I had only a few hours, I decided to skip the western end of the rim trail. You had to walk or take the shuttle buses to see that side of the canyon and I had walked much of it the last time I was here. Instead, I went to get some lunch and then take the drive along the road to Desert View at the eastern end of the park.

While in the cafeteria line I learned why there were so many people here – it's Spring Break! I should have known but the thought just never crossed my mind.

It was a leisurely drive to Desert View (over four hours to drive 30 miles!) with stops at nearly every viewpoint along the way and spending as much time as desired at each one. The further along the drive, the fewer people there were. I took lots of pictures, but I also took time to simply sit in the sunshine and enjoy the gorgeous day and the awesome views.

The view from Grandview Point near the beginning of Desert View Drive.

This tree is amazing. Beyond words.

It looks so close, but 'tis far away. I think that foreground area is Cedar Ridge!

There will be a few more posts on my short visit to the Grand Canyon... so many pictures, and such a beautiful day!

Homeward Bound...

Not quite two years ago (April 5, 2010) after I had been on this Journey for seven months, Craig Manson asked me “How long will you be traveling?” My response was “Till I’m done!” Well, folks, I'm done! And I'm tired...

I woke up last Saturday morning with the realization that I didn't want to go to California. I didn't want the hassle and stress of driving in the horrendous traffic. I just didn't want to deal with any of it. This may sound absurd, but anywhere I'd want to go in California, I've already been. Besides, I'm tired. Yes, there are a few people I'd like to have visited – cousins and friends – but, quite frankly, the traffic and dealing with the weather have taken it's toll. I'm done! And I'm tired...

So, I spent a few days in northwest Arizona mulling things over, trying to determine if this was just a little funk I was in. But it wasn't. I really don't want to go anywhere else either. It's too early to go north and the arid southwest seems, well, quite honestly, not all that appealing right now. Besides, I'm done! And I'm tired...

It has been a marvelous Journey. I can still feel the cold spray of water falling on my face at Niagara Falls and the brisk morning air of that first fall in Vermont. I can see the stillness of the ocean while kayaking in Belfast Harbor and smell the ocean air after a storm at Kennebunk Beach. I see the fog rising from the valleys of Shenandoah National Park, and the sunsets. Oh! The Glorious Sunsets!

I can smell the decaying leaves in the “rain forest” and feel the “sponginess” of the earth beneath my feet in Olympic National Park. I was awed by Mount Rainier and amazed at the deep blue color of Crater Lake. From east coast to west coast and so many places in between. The things I've seen. The things I've done. I went halfway down into the Grand Canyon – and made it back up to the Rim! I went up to the top of Angels Landing – and safely down again. And Alaska! I drove to Alaska! Can you believe it? So many thoughts are going through my mind, so many memories, so many wondrous sights. In one sense, yes, it is over. But in another sense, it will never be over...

But the fact is, it is done. It is time to go home. Back to Indiana. There is a part of me that is sad because it's over. But there is a bit of relief as well. It's time to move on to the next phase, whatever it might be.

But that doesn't mean my traveling days are forever over... I still have a research trip to take into Ohio, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and maybe New York. If not this summer, then next. Depending upon how long it takes me to sort through all of the documents I scanned at the Family History Library! And I'm trying to talk my cousin Babs into taking that “Joslin Heritage Tour” that had to be canceled. When that will happen depends upon her schedule.

In my post announcing this Journey on August 3, 2009 I wrote

“I believe in serendipity. Not just in family research, but in travel also. As one door closes, another opens… one phase ends, another begins. I'm a little nervous and a lot excited about the prospects of this journey but I feel it is the right thing for me to be doing at this particular time. The stars have aligned. It's time to go.”

Yes, I do believe. It is time to go. Home.

However, it's not quite over, yet. I've still got 1750 miles to go and I did make one last “touristy” stop yesterday...

A Side Trip to Rhyolite

Friday, March 9th - - Today was a lazy day. I spent much of the morning hanging around the campsite soaking up some sunshine. Then another camper told me about the “ghost town” of Rhyolite just across the state line in Nevada. It was a 60+ mile drive from the campground and the “real” town of Beatty was a few miles further. At Beatty I filled up the gas tank with regular unleaded for just $3.67 per gallon. At the two stations in Death Valley National Park it was nearly $6.00 per gallon! Maybe not worth the drive specifically to fill up but since I was already there it was definitely worth it!

I have to admit, Rhyolite didn't do much for me. I got there around noon so the harsh desert lighting was even harsher than normal. There were only three buildings of any real interest. All of the others were little more than piles of debris.

This was the tallest and biggest building still standing.

The same building as above, from a different viewpoint.

I just love the blue accent of the corners.

The village Mercantile store.

This house was built of glass bottles embedded in concrete! It is surrounded by a tall fence, presumably to protect it from vandals. It looked like it was in pretty good condition.

Glass bottles embedded in concrete.

A “side-yard” was filled with these little structures made of concrete and bits of glass.

Lovely Lavender.

Death Valley :: Scottys Castle

Be forewarned – this post is graphic intensive – lots of photos!

Thursday, March 8th - - Continuing on with today's excursion, it was only a few miles further north to Scotty's Castle. Walter Scott was a shyster. Using the lure of untold millions of dollars worth of gold in his mine, he duped wealthy business men into financing his imaginary mine – though they didn't know the mine really didn't exist! He eventually incurred the favor of a wealthy business man from Chicago. Albert Johnson, in poor health found another kind of wealth from the dry desert air and an escape from the busy life he led. He enjoyed Scotty's company and the tales he told, whether true or not.

In the early 1920s Mr. Johnson began construction of a vacation home – his wife didn't care much for camping and sleeping on the ground but she enjoyed being in the desert. Within a short time, the palatial house became known as “Scotty's Castle” and the Johnson's went along with it all, perhaps getting a great deal of pleasure in the ruse they were playing on friends and guests who visited the ranch and listened to the stories told by Scotty.

You can read more about the story behind Scotty's Castle on the Death Valley website. It's a fun and interesting story!

As you are driving in from the south, through pretty much barren land, nestled in a small valley at the end of Death Valley National Park there is a little oasis, likely the only potable water in that end of the valley, and nearby is the site upon which Mr. Johnson chose to build his little house.

The courtyard between the two buildings with the clock tower in the background.

Inscribed above the door is “Death Valley Ranch” which is the name the Johnson's gave the place.

The interior of the house is dimly lit, the windows are covered with the original draperies some of which were made of leather. The draperies are closed to block out the sunlight and help preserve the furnishings. Oddly enough, photographs are allowed to be taken inside – even with flash!

The main entry-room was impressive with its floor to ceiling fireplace spanning two floors. The second floor has a balcony that goes completely around the entry-room.

The tour guides dress in period costumes from the 1930s, which is when the Johnson's opened their home to tour groups to help pay for the upkeep of the ranch.

Decorative tiles over the kitchen sink.

The kitchen stove, with copper cooking utensils. The little white appliance on the left of the shelf above the stove is a toaster. Their vacation may have been in a remote area, but the Johnson's had the latest and most modern features.

A floor level view of that fireplace, taken from the kitchen doorway.

A corner fireplace in one of the guest rooms upstairs.

The music room. To the left was a long alcove with a player organ. As part of the tour, they turn it on and play one song. It was beautiful and quite loud.

The elaborate ceiling of the music room. The cables are part of the original construction, used to keep the walls from bulging outward.

A beautiful stained glass window in the west wall of the music room.

Looking up the spiral staircase that leads to the top of the tower, which can be seen on the right side of the photo below.

A front view of Scotty's Castle. The pool in front goes the entire length of the house, and more. The tour guide said it had never been filled with water. If you look closely you can see a cross on the hill above and behind the house. Scotty's grave is to the left of the cross, he died in 1954.

I was amused by the “old prospector” weather vane atop the front tower, probably depicting Scotty on one of his legendary mining expeditions.

Death Valley :: Ubehebe Crater

Wednesday, March 7th - - After stopping at Zabriske Point and the visitors center I drove the 60 miles or so to the north end of the park. On my last visit the road was under construction with long delays and I didn't have the patience to deal with it. I spent the night at Mesquite Spring Campground, which as rustic as it is, is one of the nicer campgrounds in the park – the campgrounds at Texas Spring, Sunset, and Stovepipe Wells are little more than parking lots with the campers lined up side by side.

Thursday, March 8th - - I was still quite tired from the drive on Tuesday and slowly got myself up and around this morning. Since I had never been in this area of the park before I took a look at the Visitor Guide. I knew Scotty's Castle was only a few miles away but wasn't aware that the Ubehebe Crater was even closer. (Ubehebe is pronounced u-bee hee-bee.)

The crater was formed about 2,000 years ago when hot, molten rock turned groundwater into steam. The intense steam pressure built until the superheated combination of steam and rock exploded. The explosion spewed shattered rock over a six-square-mile area, in some places to depths of 150 feet. Ubehebe is the largest of many explosion craters in the area – it is a half mile across and about 600 feet deep.

Several trails lead into the floor of the crater. I didn't even attempt to go down. You can't see them in the photo above, but there are two people down there.

See, there they are... barely visible at full zoom!

A trail also follows the crater rim, how long it is I don't know. I did follow the path up to another smaller crater, which according to a sign was half a mile distant.

A panoramic view of Ubehebe Crater. The parking lot is down that path on the left side of the crater, about half way into the picture. Be sure to double-click on the photo for a larger version, then click again when it opens – it is an incredible landscape.

Death Valley :: Zabriskie Point

Wednesday, March 7th - - I was tempted to spend another night at the motel in Pahrump because the strong winds were still blowing. But the sun was shining and patches of blue sky were showing through the clouds and the weather forecast called for diminishing winds later in the day. There was still quite a bit of dust in the air and the mountains in the distance were rather hazy looking. It was late morning when I left Pahrump and the drive to Death Valley National Park was rather nice. There wasn't a lot of traffic to fight with and I was driving into the wind so the van wasn't buffeted from the side like all day Tuesday.

Having been stationed in California, I have visited Death Valley several times the latest being in April 2010. Like many of our National Parks, each time you visit you see things in a different way. The quality of the light is always different depending upon the time of day and other atmospheric conditions. And the light is what makes things seem to appear different. Because there was so much sand and dust in the air I concentrated this time on the closer views at Zabriske Point, abstracting Mother Nature a bit. There is no sense of dimension in the photos, no way to tell how large or how small the mounds of dirt and rocks really are...

Poor Van Dora ...

Wednesday, March 7th - - My decision to leave Salt Lake City yesterday morning was made the previous week. I was ready to go after five weeks researching in Genea-Mecca but in hindsight perhaps I should have waited a few more days... I was headed to California but high winds with strong gusts were forecast for all of Nevada (and much of the west) for the next two days. I could take the northern route and get into the snow storm that was predicted and coming towards Salt Lake City. Or I could take the southern route through Las Vegas then west. After checking the weather reports before leaving yesterday morning I decided the safest route would be to go south.

I haven't checked to see what the weather was like along I-80 so I don't know if my chosen route (I-15 south) was the best or safest! But I do know it sure wasn't an easy day of driving! It wasn't too bad until I got about half way to St. George, which is about 300 miles south of Salt Lake City, when the winds really picked up. By the time I got to St. George, it was definitely two-handed white-knuckle driving! Then when I got into Nevada, there were times when visibility was extremely limited due to the blowing sand. There was an amazing amount of tumbleweeds blowing down the highway too, as well as plastic bags and bottles and various other debris.

My “plan” had been to stop at Valley of Fire State Park for the night, which is about 40 miles north of Las Vegas. But there was so much sand and dirt and gravel being blown about that I decided to continue on south. I stopped just north of Las Vegas for gas and had a really rough time trying to stand in one spot to pump the gas.

I made it through Las Vegas before the rush hour and drove the 50 miles or so west to Pahrump where I wimped out and spent the night at a motel. At around five o'clock or so we had a little rain added to the wind and I was glad that I was inside, safe and dry. I learned later on the news that the wind had been steady at about 30 mph most of the day with gusts up to 75 mph – no wonder my right arm and shoulder was sore!

Poor Van Dora. She needs a bath! This is what happens when you drive in blowing sand then a little rain comes along... I didn't really think the van was all that dirty when I got out at the motel. After the rain, all of the other cars in the parking lot were in this same condition, which means that as the rain fell it must have picked up some of the sand and dust in the air. I think it was basically raining mud, at least for a short time.

Van Dora looks worse now than she did traveling on the dirt roads in Alaska!

Splendid Mother Nature!

Yesterday, Mother Nature gave us a beautiful day, with the temperature almost reaching 60 degrees – not that I took advantage of it or anything – most days (other than Sundays) have been spent at The Library. No “new” ancestors yet but still finding some good stuff!

Today the high was in the upper 30s due to a cold front that came through last night. Late this afternoon I noticed some interesting cloud formations in the western sky and decided to leave a little earlier than usual. I drove just a few miles west of the city on I-80, and took the exit when I saw a small pond alongside the road. The photo below is the result of that little excursion. You can't miss with a sunset when there are clouds and water involved... It was a little chilly, but worth it!